Pub Grub - The Quarryman's Rest, Bampton

by Adrian Tierney-Jones

The quarry in Bampton has long gone and a small estate of new homes now sits in its place. All that remains to remind people of this rich seam of industrial history is the Quarryman’s Rest, a solidly-built, comfortably-endowed inn perched at the top of this neat and attractive Devon village (some would say small town) on the edge of Exmoor.

Like many pubs, it’s changed its name several times over the years. Back in the 1980s it was The Tiverton. Then it became The Seahorse, a robust and rumbustious place as I recall, offering a decent pint of Butcombe Bitter from the Mendips. Apparently the man who owned it came from Torquay where he ran a pub with the same name. About three years ago or so, it changed again, taking on its current name, something that historically-minded locals could empathise with – there’s nothing like giving an old pub something of its history back, and the old quarrymen of Bampton would have loved to drink in a place that celebrated their endeavours. On the other hand what would they have made of a plate of prawns in tempura batter (on the menu when we visited on a Friday lunchtime)?

The pub was hearteningly busy for a gloomy January weekday. “There’s a delay of 20 minutes for the food, we’ve got a party upstairs,” said the barmaid. Fair enough, we had the time. Sometimes a pub is the best place for slowing things down, and as I made my way back from the bar with our drinks – a pint of the richly bitter and chocolaty Otter Ale for me, a strawberry Bellini for my wife – I reflected on previous times in busy pubs when the staff wouldn’t deign to give you that warning. The beer was good, brewed over in Honiton and the Bellini was sweet and fizzy. “A little sickly and synthetic,” opined my wife, but drank it nonetheless. Doom Bar from Sharps Brewery and Dob’s Best Bitter from nearby Exe Valley Brewery were also on tap, while real cider from Winkleigh was the attraction for those who like their apple juice with a bit of zip.

I would say that the Quarryman’s is nineteenth century, but it’s had a lot done over the years. In a guidebook from 1981, when it was still The Tiverton, I find the description: ‘modernised old pub with two bars and pool room’. You can imagine the disdain on the face of the writer. Now, there’s just one bar (plus a restaurant and outdoor garden) and the interior is honest and unfussy. There’s a large open lounge to the left of the bar, featuring mix and match wooden furniture, including an upright settle at the end of our table. There’s also a brace of leather armchairs, which usually add a veneer of civilisation to pub life. There is no background music, just the hum and haw of pub conversation. The odd dog lounged on the carpet, while at the bar lunchtime drinkers were enjoying a gossip and the sustenance of a pint. It was all warm, convivial and calming, just how a pub should be – neither spit and sawdust nor uppity gastro-pub. Which reminded me, as I mused on the surroundings, our twenty minutes must nearly be up. As if on cue a friendly young waitress came to take our order.

For starters we had the aforementioned tiger prawns in tempura batter with a chilli and ginger dipping sauce (£5.95) and also potted salt beef with pear and date pickle and toasted muffin (£4.95). The prawns were fat and juicy in a piping-hot crisp batter. The potted beef was spicy, creamy and robust. To be honest, there was enough there for a full lunch but then our main courses arrived. For me, fresh Brixham cod in beer batter and homemade chips and peas (£9.50). The fish was fresh and fluffy, and the batter crisp. Being a traditionalist I would have preferred mushy peas to the plain garden variety but it was fine fare. My wife had the locally sourced ribeye steak with caramelised baby onions, port sauce and twice-cooked chips (£13.95). She’s had steak here on several occasions and reckoned this wasn’t the best one (yet didn’t leave much on her plate).

Portions here are not just generous but gargantuan and there simply wasn’t room for pudding (though on previous visits we’ve enjoyed the cheesecake and the chocolate brownie). I really like the fact that the pub tries to source everything locally and that they have a short menu (when you see a pub menu that runs to pages, chances are the microwave will be busy). Everything here is freshly cooked and it shows. The quarrymen of Bampton have a worthy memorial. Contact: 01398 331480; www.thequarrymansrest.co.uk

 
From Issue 51 Spring 2010